First American to Summit Mount Everest Dies
Tuesday, 2026/04/14257 words4 minutes820 reads
Jim Whittaker, whose historic ascent of Mount Everest in 1963 established him as an American folk hero and catalyzed the modern mountaineering movement in the United States, has died at age 97. He passed away Tuesday at his Port Townsend, Washington home, overlooking the Olympic Mountains and Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Whittaker's May 1, 1963 summit of the 29,032-foot peak alongside Sherpa Nawang Gombu came a decade after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay's pioneering climb. The achievement earned him the Hubbard Medal from President John F. Kennedy and cemented his status among the world's most highly regarded mountaineers. Reflecting on the experience, Whittaker once observed that climbing difficult mountains teaches humility: "You leave your ego behind and learn that you're just a little micro-speck in this life."
Born in Seattle in 1929, Whittaker began his climbing career as a Boy Scout with his twin brother Lou, summiting Mount Olympus at age 16. His influence extended far beyond personal accomplishments. As the first full-time employee and eventual president of REI (1971-1979), he helped shape America's outdoor retail landscape. His environmental advocacy proved equally impactful—his 1968 Congressional testimony was instrumental in establishing North Cascades National Park, Pasayten Wilderness, and Redwood National Park.
Whittaker cultivated close ties with the Kennedy family, serving as state chairman for Robert F. Kennedy's presidential campaign and joining him in the first ascent of Mount Kennedy in Canada. At 83, he returned to Everest with his son Leif, demonstrating that his devotion to adventure, stewardship, and family remained undiminished throughout his remarkable life.
