First American to Summit Mount Everest Dies
Tuesday, 2026/04/14187 words3 minutes756 reads
Jim Whittaker, the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, has died at age 97. He passed away peacefully at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, surrounded by family.
Whittaker made history on May 1, 1963, when he and Sherpa climbing partner Nawang Gombu reached the top of the world's highest peak at 29,032 feet. This achievement came ten years after the first successful Everest climb and helped launch the modern mountaineering movement in America. President John F. Kennedy awarded him the prestigious Hubbard Medal for this accomplishment.
Born in Seattle in 1929, Whittaker began climbing as a Boy Scout with his twin brother Lou. At just 16, they summited Mount Olympus in Washington state. Whittaker's passion for the outdoors extended beyond climbing. He became the first full-time employee of REI and later served as its president from 1971 to 1979.
Whittaker was also a dedicated environmental advocate. He testified before Congress in 1968, helping establish several national parks including North Cascades and Redwood. He returned to Everest in 2013 at age 83 with his son Leif, demonstrating his lifelong commitment to adventure and family.
